VENICE
I love Venice for a myriad of reasons... but their local cuisine has never been one of them. Perhaps it was our own fault, but we have always struck out when venturing out for food in the sinking city.
But a few years ago, on our babymoon, we were determined to do better. Luckily, we went with our friends Tyler & Amber and they helped us source some really decent places to eat... In fact, they were more than decent. They were delicious.
If you head to any of these places, you'll be in for a guaranteed treat.
EAT
ENOTECA AL VOLTO: This place opened in 1936 and has apparently been awesome for a long time. We went for "aperitivi," basically pre-dinner drinks & food... which is one of the best kept secrets of Italy. In Northern Italy {specifically Venice!}, you can't go through early evening without seeing slews of locals drinking the pre-dinner drink, a "Spritz," which is a bright orange concoction consisting of Aperol, white wine or prosecco, club soda & an orange slice. In most local bars, these cost about €2.50-4 and are served with some delicious salty snacks and nibbles like marinated artichokes and small sandwiches. Enoteca Al Volto gets this time of day down perfectly.
The prices are ridiculously low, the food & drink are fantastic, and the ambiance is perfect. Please, please go when you are in Venice... and tell me how much you loved it. {Because I'm fairly sure you will.... especially those artichokes. Yum!}
Calle Cavalli 4081 | San Marco, 30124 Venezia | +39 041 522 8945
HARRY'S BAR: This place is a legend. Literally, it's an actual historical landmark. The three things you need to know about it: 1. It's the birthplace of the Bellini. 2. Hemingway hung out here. 3. It's super expensive so be prepared to shell out some cash. You won't be able to see from the frosted windows lining this tiny establishment, but the interior is really low key. {It almost reminds me of the interior of a boat?} The staff is decked out in crisp white coats and are ready to field any orders for Bellinis. Look around, it's what almost everyone else is drinking in there.
While the glass may initially seem small, just consider what it would look like in a champagne flute and you'll realized that actually- it's about the right size. A Classic Bellini is €16.50. (If you opt for a pregnant-friendly version, it's €11.50.) Yeah, it's a splurge but you kinda have to do it when you're in Venice. And hey, at least the Olives are free! Bottoms Up! *No need for a reservation if you're just stopping in for drinks.
Calle Vallaresso, 1323 | 30124 Venezia (San Marco) | +39 041 528 5777
DA MAMO: There are many terrible places to eat in Venice. Pretty much every place that has pictures on their menu or plasters multiple translations of the menu to their windows with flags indicating the language should be completely avoided... But in a town like Venice that is so... "tourist friendly" {read: tourist trap}, you can find yourself with few options other than some really expensive options... unless you go to Da Mamo.
This is a great pizzeria and trattoria. Think delicious pasta and pizza... and incredible dessert. You have to try it to believe it, but the strawberries & marscapone drizzled with balsamic will change your life. We didn't have reservations and eventually got a table after a brief wait... but it was also January and raining. I think you'd be smart to have your hotel call ahead and save a table for you to avoid getting stuck without one... or book ahead through their website.
Calle Stagneri 5251 | San Marco, 30124 Venezia | +39 041 523 6583
SUSO GELATOTECA: Steps away from the Rialto Bridge, you’ll find Suso busting with people clammering to get a taste of their artisan gelato. The wait is worth it. It makes for the perfect treat to accompany you all the way back towards San Marco or the train station, as it’s a nice half-way point between the two.
Calle della Bissa 5453 | San Marco, 30124 Venezia | +39 348 564 6545
BASIUM GELATERIA: A smaller stop than Suso, admittedly, but don’t be fooled- this is good gelato. Not only does the homemade gelato stand out (the coconut is really good!), but they also have great non-dairy options that hit the spot, like delicious homemade orange or lemon granitas.
Viale Giacomo Matteotti 14 | 62012 Civitanova Marche | +39 0733 471081
FARINI: If you’re needing something that isn’t a long sit-down affair, Farini’s modern take on the Italian cafeteria is in order. Pick from some of their generously cut pizzas topped with all the best trimmings, grab a drink at the bar or sit for a coffee. The options are all yours... and so is the pleasure. I’d really recommend it for a breakfast spot to grab a cappuccino and “uno pezzo dolce,” like a Nutella-stuffed cornetto.
Calle Seconda de la Fava 5602 | 30121 Venezia | +39 041 241 1899
ROSSOPOMODORO: Our concierge recommended this pizzeria to us late upon our arrival to Venice. Tired and happy to hear of a place nearby, we went... and remarked how there is also a ROSSOPOMODORO near my office in London. Well, come to find out...it's the same restaurant. Okay, obviously not the same,but it's part of a chain originating out of Naples. Tyler was slightly devastated ,but we both agreed that had we not known there were otherswe would really loved it. {Does that make us hipsters or something?}
The food is great- especially the pizza, the prices are more than fair, the decor is cool, the staff is great with Americans/tourists, and the location near St. Marks Square is a win. Honestly, it was really tasty and I'd swallow my pride and totally eat there again...which is why I'm adding it on my list of recommendations.
Calle Larga San Marco 404 | San Marco, 30124 Venezia | +39 041 283 4939
DO
There are the basics of what to do in Venice (St. Mark's Square, the Bell Tower, Murano, etc)... but I'm throwing out our favorite option of how to spend a day in Venice.
BURANO: After visiting Venice a handful of times, I was pretty confident that I had seen all there was to see. Until my sister pointed me in the direction of the island of Burano during a trip there in 2007. Now Murano is the really famous island where all the gorgeous glass is made, but Burano is the other island, that's located a bit further out, where the (somewhat less famous) Venetian lace has it's home.
While it was fairly unknown a handful of years ago, it has grown increasingly popular over the past five to ten years. Each time we go, the boat has more and more people on it and the island's main canal has more people walking down taking in the gorgeous colors of the island. Even with it becoming "discovered," it's still absolutely worth seeing for yourself.
Take the Vaparetto #12 from Fondamente Nove... located on the northern part of Venice, about a 15 minute walk from the big touristy areas.This is the quickest boat (about 45 minutes) and will stop at both Murano & Burano. If you aren't planning on traveling by boat anywhere else that day, you can buy single tickets (€7 each way) and save some money from purchasing the 24 hour pass.The boats run approxiamately every 30 minutes at 20 minutes & 50 minutes past the hour.
STAY
Hotel Danieli (splurge)
Calle Seconda de la Fava, 4196, 30122 Venezia VE | +39 041 522 6480
Londra Palace (splurge)
Riva degli Schiavoni, 4171, 30122 Venezia VE | +39 041 520 0533
AD Place Venice (mid-range, good prices via Tablet)
Fondamenta Fenice, 2557/A, 30124 Venezia VE | +39 041 241 3234
Residenza Laguna (affordable)
San Polo 1016, 30125 Venezia VE | +39 041 296 0575
Best Western Albergo San Marco (affordable)
S. Marco, 877, 30124 Venezia VE | +39 041 520 4277
Air BnB Apartment Rental (Trust me- it's a great thing!)
AT YOUR RECOMMENDATION...
Here are a few places recommended by fellow readers that made their time in Venice special... and delicious.
Osteria La Zucca
Santa Croce 1762, 30135 Venice (San Marco)
" ... beautiful canal side setting and I highly recommend the pumpkin flan."
-Jeff & April
Osteria Antico Giardinetto
Calle dei Morti 2253, Santa Croce, 30135 Venice (San Marco)
"It's a hidden gem, but worth the search. I would ABSOLUTELY call ahead- we have been to Venice three times and were only able to get in two of the times."-Stephanie Lane